True, DOT 5 and water don't mix so IF you get water in your lines it will tend to sit in the lowest part. That's all perception and would not bear out in the real world. Yes, DOT 5 is slightly more compressible than DOT 3/4/5.1, but once the compression is taken up, there is no weakness in braking. i saw someone on ebay offering drip trays for this reason. just be careful when pouring and or fabricate a drip pan under the systems to protect paint. but if you mix your fluids your system will be at the specs of the lower DOT rating you poured in.įor me the lack of braking performance with DOT 5 in comparison to DOT 4 (which is what i use) and especially 5.1 VS peelng paint is not worth it. DOT 5.1 is compatible with all other fluids except DOT 5. it's viscosity is less affected by temperature and it absorbs water at a much slower rate than DOT 3 and 4. i hear is close to race car fluid boiling point limits. DOT 4 is a bit better than DOT 3 in it's performance ratings i just mentioned and DOT 5.1 offers VERY high boiling points. the best fluid to use is DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 for higher performance applications. most notably boiling point and changes to viscosity due to temperature and water absorption. so flush your lines often if you use DOT 5.ĭOT 3 is old and has lower properties desirable in a brake fluid. The other disadvantage is that it's not compatible with water = meaning water will collect at the lowest point of the system in it's entirety making rusted brake lines a possibility. if you use DOT 5 you can only use DOT 5 and DO NOT mix. DOT 5 is not campatible with any other brake fluid. with weak brakes already on a spitfire that's the last thing you need. the biggest disadvantage is spongy pedal feel. but other than that i don't think DOT 5 has any other advantages. the biggest benefit with DOT 5 is that it's silicone based and won't make the paint peel on your firewall shelf. Below is a link to one of the threads about what to flush he systems with. This subject has been covered repeatedly on the MG experience website. Replace silicone brake fluid every 2-3 years. If you do the brake rebuild, you only have to bleed it once. Then it's a matter of hooking everything back up and filling and bleeding the system 4-6 times to be sure everything is flushed out. I'd blow out the lines like that and replace the rubber hoses no matter how you do the swap. The brake cleaner, however, could damage rubber bits so don't let it sit in brake parts. If not doing a total rebuild I would say the procedure is to push all the old fluid out with something like and Ezi-bleed bleeder or (very carefully) with compressed air then unbolt the lines and spray brake cleaner into the brake lines and immediately blow them outwith compressed air. I won't use anything other than dot5 silicone.Īnd no more paint peeling if you pour badly. If you've never used dot-5 the pedal may not feel as firm as before but the stuff is still wonderful compared to that shit dot3. That includes new rear wheel cylinders, new flexible brake hoses, rebuilding or replacing calipers and master cylinders/slave cylinders I strongly suggest doing this in conjunction with a major brake overhaul. You're going to have to completely drain and flush every last bit of dot3 fluid out of the system.
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